The name of the game in high ratio cake recipes is “emulsification”, which means an extremely smooth and integrated mixture with all the ingredients distributed as finely and uniformly as possible. That’s how the very fine and strong crumb of a commercially made cake layer is achieved. Most people don’t have access to the high ratio flour and emulsified shortening that commercial bakeries use, so I’m adding adding extra emulsifiers in the form of egg yolks. What are emulsifiers? Simply little whatsit molecules that get between other molecules and keep them from forming big clumps. A key to this is making sure all your ingredients are room temperature, since egg yolk emulsifiers don’t work well when they’re cold.
This cake works for a number of applications, from small layers to doughnuts to sheet cakes. For larger sheets, you’ll want to subtract a bit of the leavening to help keep the rise under control and prevent the center from falling. The recipe goes like this:
6.75 ounces (3/4 cup + 1 1/2 tablespoons) milk, room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) vegetable oil
13.5 ounces (3 cups) cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon baking powder (1/4 tsp less if you’re baking a large sheet cake)
15 ounces (2 cups, 2 tablespoons) sugar
6.75 ounces (1 cup) shortening (butter can also be used).
3 eggs
6 egg yolks
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, grease a 9″ x 13″ pan and line it with parchment. Combine the milk, vanilla and oil in a bowl and set aside. Sift the flour into a large bowl, add the salt, baking powder and HALF the sugar. Set that aside also. Next, combine the remaining sugar and shortening in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle (beater) and cream them thoroughly, about two minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then the yolks steadily. Stir in about a third of the flour, then half the milk mixture, another third of the flour, etc. until everything is incorporate. Scrape the mixture into a greased 9″ x 13″ cake pan and bake about half an hour until the cake springs back in the middle when touched.
Thinking sheet-cake baking; I have seen advertised a hollow cone shaped device with a flat top [heating core device] to be inserted into a sheet-cake pan to “improve baking outcomes,” that is, to bake the center at the same speed as the edges. Some batter is poured into the device at baking time, to assist in plugging the hole made by the device. It is usually sold next to fabric strips that are to be placed around the outside edges to “improve baking outcomes” of the edges. Are these useful or are they extras that are not necessary?
Hi Lloyd!
Yes, I’ve seen those. They’re suppose to help radiate oven heat into the center of the cake. I suppose they, along with cake strips, do work at least to some extent, and would be worth a try if you’re having problems with falling centers. However nice thick pans are probably the best way to avoid undercooked middles, after that a good-quality oven, though of course new ovens don’t grow on trees. And thank God. Can you imagine the clatter they’d make when they dropped in the Autumn? Lordy.
- Joe
I have also read that placing a flower nail upside-down in the center of the pan can achieve a similar effect as the cone without having to plug up a large hole after baking. I haven’t tried it, but it might be worth looking into if you’re planning an experiment.
Here are the nails on Wilton’s website: http://www.wilton.com/store/site/product.cfm?sku=pg_flowernails
Thanks so much, Catherine!
- Joe
I’ve read that metal flower nails for cake decorating will also help radiate heat to the center of a 9×13 pan. Put one or two into the central portion of the cake, point down. They’re slender enough that they apparently don’t leave a hole in the cake.
Fascinating. Thanks Chana!
- Joe
Rose Levy Barenbaum recommends cake strips as a way to slow down the baking of the sides to allow the center to heat up more evenly with the sides creating a much more level cake…no more 1/2 inch sides with a domed 3 inch peak in the middle. No more crunchy edges either..yeah! ( Remember this is cake not brownies where crunchy sides are fought over!)
Hey Phyllis!
That’s true. Personally I’ve never noticed much of a difference using cake strips. Some people swear by them. But everyone’s kitchen is different!
- Joe
I never had great success with cake strips. And I constantly stabbed myself with the pin that came with them to annoy me even more than the cake strips not working so great. Some years back I saw a trick with thicker cake batters to make a well in the middle and the sides higher to keep the center from doming and it does seem to work when I remember to do it. I have used a metal can with both ends open to make a core for very large layers like 12 in. Or more. Works well but you do have this odd loose core. I usually glue it with a bit of icing to make sure it stays with the layer. Flower nail sounds good if it is oven safe and does the trick! Try the trick of lowering the center on 9×13 cakes and I think you will see less underdone centers and fewer domes.
Hi joe. I stumbled upon your site completely by accident and luck. In so glad I did. I’m an amateur baker and somewhat of a chemistry nerd. I just live that you can give easy to understand extinctions of how baking works. Thanks a bunch.
Glad to have you abroad, Rachael!
Thanks for the note and please get in touch should you have any questions about anything on the blog!
- Joe
This is somewhat of a stupid question: could you define what’s a high-ratio cake? Some people define it as a cake made with the reverse creaming method that is high in sugar and fat contents. Is that so? What if I employ the reverse creaming method but employs little sugar? Does that still count as a high-ratio cake? Namely, is it the ratio or the method that makes a cake high-ratio?
Aren’t most American butter cakes high-ratio cakes anyway?
Hey Henry!
Just scroll down to the post “On High Ratio Cakes” it’s all there!
But to answer your question, commercially made cakes are hi ratio, yes. As are box cakes. Home made butter cakes are often not, but the high ratio cake is quickly becoming the standard.
- Joe
So, Joe, is this the “final” high-ratio yellow cake recipe? The picture of the chocolate cake version has the texture I was after!
JackL
It is. I made the yellow cake today and I’ll have the photo tutorial up tomorrow!
- Joe
I made this cake today. LOVE, Love, love the texture. It is a little dry so I made a trifle out of it. I did use a terry wrap around the sheet pan. Came out great nice and even. Please do consider a white version. THX
Hey Leona! Swap out a little olive oil for some of the butter and add it in after you beat in the egg yolks. That should amp up the moisture!
Glad it worked so well,
- Joe
This is makes so much sense. I never would of it in that way. I am sooooo trying this myself!! Nice one!
Let me know how it goes, Geoff!
- Joe
Hi Joe!
first of all want to thank you for the ermine frosting (aka boiled milk aka… ), was delicious!
Now I am searching a truly original recipe for yellow cake (have to make kind a historical research). I like your recipe very much may I ask you if it is the original one and from where you get it? thank you!
Hi Francy!
Interesting research! This isn’t a standard high ratio yellow cake. I tweaked it a bit to add a little more moisture to it (egg yolk, oil). The standard formula can be found just about anywhere. Here’s what a google book search turned up:
http://books.google.com/books?id=ppMzyDFyHUwC&pg=PA482&dq=high+ratio+cake&hl=en&sa=X&ei=1JIbUaOAO8XZ0QGa04HgAw&sqi=2&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=high%20ratio%20cake&f=false
Best of luck with your research! Let me know if I can help in any other way!
- Joe
Thank you Joe! i will try your recipe of yellow cake, just as it is. Can you tell me if golden cake and yellow cake are the same thing? maybe yellow cake was called “golden cake” in ancient years?
thanks!
ah, I almost forgot, I wanted to make a layer cake I have 9 inch round pans how many of them can I get with these quantities?
thanks again!
Two, plus leftovers for cupcakes!
- Joe
Hmm…let me look into that, Francy! I think they are the same but you never know!
- Joe
What changes can I expect if I use butter instead of shortening? Also do you have a recipe for a chocolate version?
Thanks!
Kristina